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Stop 2 of 8

The White Lion

headphones 01:45

Look for a pale, refaced pub front with rectangular windows and an upper storey that leans slightly over the ground floor.

A clerk in seventeen thirty-five wrote down White Lion here, then added a tantalising note: this place had once been called the Three Cupps. That little correction tells you a great deal about St Albans. Names slide, uses change, and the older life survives only in paperwork. This building reaches back to the end of the sixteenth century. Behind the smoother frontage hides a timber frame, and that slight overhang above you is the clue: a jetty, where the upper floor pushes forward over the one below.

Take a moment with the frontage. Which part feels honest about its age, and which part is keeping its secret?

The records hint that this was never just a straightforward pub. Part of it served as a meeting house, then a brewhouse, and in the seventeen forties men like Samuel Long and Moses Machorro kept passing it through sales and mortgages. If you glance at the old Sopwell Lane view in the app, you can place this house in that longer chain of ownership and reinvention.

It also had a sly reputation. Local police worried about the White Lion’s three exits, which gave troublemakers an easy way to vanish. Much later, landlord David Worcester earned praise from the Campaign for Real Ale, C-A-M-R-A, for the quality of the beer, though a former landlord later paid two thousand pounds over a music-licence breach.

If this place can conceal its frame and even mislay its name, expect other disguises ahead. When you are ready, the Hare and Hounds is about one minute away on foot. If you return later, it keeps long hours and prices are moderate.

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